MY TASTEFUL OPINION: Must go there.
The northwest corner of 77th and Columbus is a diverse, yummy corner. You’ve got a casual, down and dirty Shake Shack on one side and a fancy, prim and proper Dovetail on the other. Perhaps I’ll park my future cookie stand right in the middle to give it a sense of completeness.
Dovetail is a hidden gem tucked away on the sidewalk with its understated curb appeal, but what lies behind is a meal you will never forget.
I knew ahead of time that the New England Clam Chowder I was supposed to try was no longer being served. In its place was a Butternut Squash Soup – the first course of a $24.07 Friday lunch prix fixe menu*. This soup could very well be my new favorite, kicking out the tripe soup from Corsina. Not only was it a beautiful piece of art, but it was also a well thought out bowl. Every single ingredient served a pleasant purpose. This was not a case of, yea, it’s fancy, but it’s all fluff. Whether it provided texture or bursts of flavor, each ingredient played a role to help make this into one cohesive – and very special – bowl.
The chestnut confit provided a subtle sweet nuttiness. The hidden red cranberry swirl gave a contrasting tanginess to the sweetness of the squash, whereas the itty bitty pumpernickel croutons added a big crunchy texture to the silkiness.
And then you’re surprised with the cutest pale yellow pearls of tart apple…(love!). This was all topped off with three fluffy clouds of rosemary marshmallow, giving it a blast of candied herbiness.
It was no doubt the perfect marriage of flavors – not too sweet, not too salty. It could’ve veered too much towards tasting like a dessert, if an unskilled chef tried it, but somehow the chef at Dovetail created an insanely good deconstructed savory sweet pie and put it in mostly liquid form.
Needless to say, this was no ordinary butternut squash soup. Every bite brought something new and made me ask, “Wow, what is this?” My notes on the side said, “I WANT TO LICK THIS BOWL!”
*I have no idea how much this would’ve cost on its own.
103 W. 77th Street
New York, NY 10024