Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner is New York’s “goulash king,” according to New York magazine. He apparently makes three different kinds with three different meats at three different restaurants: venison at Wallsé, pork at Blaue Gans and beef at Cafe Sabarsky. It would’ve been a soup princess’ dream to have a sampling of all three at the same time, but my dreams wouldn’t come true this time around. I had to settle for just the beef Goulash Soup at Cafe Sabarsky ($13).
I got over it quickly, though, since the bowl came out soon after I ordered it, and it was very satisfying, especially after taking a nice 40-block stroll over. Potato chunks, beef cubes, scallions, and what I wrote down as “rye seeds” (but are actually called caraway seeds which are used in rye bread!) accompanied a chunky, dark reddish-brown broth that wasn’t lacking in paprika. I’ve mentioned before how some soups would be perfect in a cabin on a snowy day, and this is one of them. It would warm you up and make you feel relaxed and right at home.
The only downside to this goulash was the saltiness. It became overwhelming towards the end, and I needed to wash it down with some water.
I wonder how Wolfgang Puck would feel about this version since goulash is one of the dishes he’d want to eat as part of his last meal (if you watched this season’s Top Chef, then you know what I’m talking about!). Would he tell Padma to dethrone Chef Gutenbrunner and tell him to pack his knives and go?
(part of the Neue Galerie museum)
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