It’s as if Perry Street and Felidia swapped menus. I was supposed to try the Chicken Broth with Market Vegetables, Dill and Lime at Perry Street, but, instead, they were serving Squash Soup with Mimolette and Crouton ($10).
Just like Felidia turned a simple chicken soup into something unique, Perry Street spun their Squash Soup into a somewhat crazy work of art. If you compare it to Dovetail’s butternut squash soup, whereas Dovetail’s was more minimalist and elegant, Perry Street’s was more like a Jackson Pollock painting, especially after you mixed the ingredients together.
The pureed sweet squash was poured, tableside, atop a mix of shaved mimolette*, toasted pumpkin seeds, chopped chives, and crunchy crouton flakes. Then, just when you thought that was it, they topped that off with some foam that tasted like cheese.
Stir it all together, and what you get is a very complex – and strong – flavor with great textures. There was even a spicy kick to it that I couldn’t figure out. Unfortunately, after a while, I started wishing I only had a simple squash puree with some seasoning since it became too heavy and overwhelming for me. But it’s a bowl that deserves appreciation, and some may really enjoy it.
And, after reading chef Cedric Vongerichten’s quote for his featured chicken broth, it looks like texture and tableside pouring are his things. From what I’ve seen with his squash soup, I’d actually like to see what he does with his chicken soup.
*According to Wikipedia, mimolette is a cow’s milk cheese originally made by the request of Louis XIV, who wanted a French cheese to resemble Edam, a Dutch cheese. In order to differentiate it from Edam, however, he had it colored orange. With a grey crust and orange flesh, it looks a lot like a cantaloupe. And I’m grossed out to know that the grey crust is a result of cheese mites which are intentionally introduced to add flavor. ICK!!!!!!
176 Perry Street (at West St.)
New York, NY 10014