Just walking into The Breslin Bar & Dining Room revealed a lot. A wide assortment of animal figurines adorned the dark, wood bar: deer, cows, pigs, ox, bison, chicken, sheep, ostrich and more. If you don’t like meat, turn around and walk out the door. That’s not to say that they don’t have non-meat options, but meat is spotlighted.
I sat at the bar for lunch and ordered my Onion and Bone Marrow Soup ($13 now; was $10 in 2009) with a side of broccolini to make myself feel better. The baby crock came out scolding hot, which was better than the lukewarm Kuba Soup that I got at Mimi’s Hummus…except for the fact that my tongue paid for it with the first slurp.
It was a bolder, richer French Onion Soup made for the lactose intolerant. A school of long, thin onion slices, a piece of fried toast and swirls of oil didn’t miss being cloaked by a thick slab of cheese. But the bowl wasn’t completely devoid of dairy – somewhere in the murkiness, you could see bits of cheese fried to the toast. The perfect amount, if you ask me.
I thoroughly enjoyed every last drop, but the heaviness and cost made me feel extremely guilty afterwards. I’ll keep this as a guilty pleasure, if I’m reeeeeallly craving it one day.
The Breslin Bar & Dining Room
20 W. 29th Street (near Broadway, at the Ace Hotel)
New York, NY 10001